A taste of Italy

Last month I decided that I need to step up my culinary and blog game and joined a wonderful group called the Daring Bakers. Each month I will present a new challenge from both the lovely Daring Bakers and the Daring Cooks (first challenge starting soon!!).

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

This lasagne reminded me of my backpacking days around Europe and scrumptious culinary delights. Although, more importantly it made me realise that I have been deprived of Italy since Summer 2004 and this would be the perfect occasion to reminisce. In an attempt to make my first challenge as authentic as possible, I visited a lovely Italian shop in Soho . Lina's in London is stuffed full of eye candy, not of the male variety, but rather of cookery. Everything from homemade pestos to amaretto biscuits and breads, to everyone saying Grazi and Ciao. I felt that I should be shopping with a glass of Chianti in hand.

The glass of Chianti also comes is handy when making pasta for the first time, although I blame this philosophy on the poor pictures of the finalised product. I used the recipes for the challenge, but changed the ragu recipe slightly, favouring veal and pork but using beef broth (recipes at bottom of post).

The result was a slippery pasta with well balanced and deep flavours, must be the 6 hours straight of cooking or the Chianti (and maybe a bottle of Prosseco in there). It was enjoyed by candlelight and fond memories of the Tuscan hills or Lago di Como. Time to buy some plane tickets…

All recipes below from The Splendid Table: Recipes from Emilia-Romagna, the Heartland of Northern Italian Food by Lynne Rossetto Kasper (published by William Morrow and Company Inc., 1992).

Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna (Lasagne Verdi al Forno)
(Serves 8 to 10 as a first course, 6 to 8 as a main dish)

Preparation Time: 15 minutes to assemble and 40 minutes cooking time

10 quarts (9 litres) salted water
1 recipe Spinach Pasta cut for lasagna (recipe follows)#1
1 recipe Bechamel Sauce (recipe follows)#2
1 recipe Country Style Ragu (recipe follows)#3
1 cup (4 ounces/125g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Assembling the Ingredients:
Have all the sauces, rewarmed gently over a medium heat, and the pasta at hand. Have a large perforated skimmer and a large bowl of cold water next to the stove. Spread a double thickness of paper towels over a large counter space. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Celsius). Oil or butter a 3 quart (approx 3 litre) shallow baking dish.

Cooking the Pasta:
Bring the salted water to a boil. Drop about four pieces of pasta in the water at a time. Cook about 2 minutes. If you are using dried pasta, cook about 4 minutes, taste, and cook longer if necessary. The pasta will continue cooking during baking, so make sure it is only barely tender. Lift the lasagne from the water with a skimmer, drain, and then slip into the bowl of cold water to stop cooking. When cool, lift out and dry on the paper towels. Repeat until all the pasta is cooked.

Assembling the Lasagne:
Spread a thin layer of béchamel over the bottom of the baking dish. Arrange a layer of about four overlapping sheets of pasta over the béchamel. Spread a thin layer of béchamel (about 3 or 4 spoonfuls) over the pasta, and then an equally thin layer of the ragu. Sprinkle with about 1&1/2 tablespoons of the béchamel and about 1/3 cup of the cheese. Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used, finishing with béchamel sauce and topping with a generous dusting of cheese.

Baking and Serving the Lasagne:
Cover the baking dish lightly with foil, taking care not to let it touch the top of the lasagne. Bake 40 minutes, or until almost heated through. Remove the foil and bake another 10 minutes, or until hot in the center (test by inserting a knife – if it comes out very warm, the dish is ready). Take care not to brown the cheese topping. It should be melted, creamy looking and barely tinged with a little gold. Turn off the oven, leave the door ajar and let the lasagne rest for about 10 minutes. Then serve. This is not a solid lasagne, but a moist one that slips a bit when it is cut and served.

#1 Spinach Egg Pasta (Pasta Verde)

Preparation: 45 minutes

Makes enough for 6 to 8 first course servings or 4 to 6 main course servings, equivalent to 1 pound (450g) dried boxed pasta.

2 jumbo eggs (2 ounces/60g or more)
10 ounces (300g) fresh spinach, rinsed dry, and finely chopped; or 6 ounces (170g) frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry
3&1/2 cups (14 ounces/400g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour (organic stone ground preferred)

Working by Hand:

Equipment

A roomy work surface, 24 to 30 inches deep by 30 to 36 inches (60cm to 77cm deep by 60cm to 92cm). Any smooth surface will do, but marble cools dough slightly, making it less flexible than desired.

A pastry scraper and a small wooden spoon for blending the dough.

A wooden dowel-style rolling pin. In Italy, pasta makers use one about 35 inches long and 2 inches thick (89cm long and 5cm thick). The shorter American-style pin with handles at either end can be used, but the longer it is, the easier it is to roll the pasta.
Note: although it is not traditional, Enza has successfully made pasta with a marble rolling pin, and this can be substituted for the wooden pin, if you have one.

Plastic wrap to wrap the resting dough and to cover rolled-out pasta waiting to be filled. It protects the pasta from drying out too quickly.

A sharp chef’s knife for cutting pasta sheets.

Cloth-covered chair backs, broom handles, or specially designed pasta racks found in cookware shops for draping the pasta.

Mixing the dough:
Mound the flour in the center of your work surface and make a well in the middle. Add the eggs and spinach. Use a wooden spoon to beat together the eggs and spinach. Then gradually start incorporating shallow scrapings of flour from the sides of the well into the liquid. As you work more and more flour into the liquid, the well’s sides may collapse. Use a pastry scraper to keep the liquids from running off and to incorporate the last bits of flour into the dough. Don’t worry if it looks like a hopelessly rough and messy lump.

Kneading:
With the aid of the scraper to scoop up unruly pieces, start kneading the dough. Once it becomes a cohesive mass, use the scraper to remove any bits of hard flour on the work surface – these will make the dough lumpy. Knead the dough for about 3 minutes. Its consistency should be elastic and a little sticky. If it is too sticky to move easily, knead in a few more tablespoons of flour. Continue kneading about 10 minutes, or until the dough has become satiny, smooth, and very elastic. It will feel alive under your hands. Do not shortcut this step. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, and let it relax at room temperature 30 minutes to 3 hours.

Stretching and Thinning:
If using an extra-long rolling pin work with half the dough at a time. With a regular-length rolling pin, roll out a quarter of the dough at a time and keep the rest of the dough wrapped. Lightly sprinkle a large work surface with flour. The idea is to stretch the dough rather than press down and push it. Shape it into a ball and begin rolling out to form a circle, frequently turning the disc of dough a quarter turn. As it thins outs, start rolling the disc back on the pin a quarter of the way toward the center and stretching it gently sideways by running the palms of your hands over the rolled-up dough from the center of the pin outward. Unroll, turn the disc a quarter turn, and repeat. Do twice more.

Stretch and even out the center of the disc by rolling the dough a quarter of the way back on the pin. Then gently push the rolling pin away from you with one hand while holding the sheet in place on the work surface with the other hand. Repeat three more times, turning the dough a quarter turn each time.

Repeat the two processes as the disc becomes larger and thinner. The goal is a sheet of even thickness. For lasagne, the sheet should be so thin that you can clearly see your hand through it and see colours. Cut into rectangles about 4 by 8 inches (10 x 20 cm). Note: Enza says that transparency is a crucial element of lasagne pasta and the dough should be rolled as thinly as possible. She says this is why her housekeeper has such strong arms!

Dry the pasta at room temperature and store in a sealed container or bag.

#2 Bechamel

Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour, organic stone ground preferred
2&2/3 cups (approx 570ml) milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

Using a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over low to medium heat. Sift over the flour, whisk until smooth, and then stir (without stopping) for about 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk a little at a time and keep the mixture smooth. Bring to a slow simmer, and stir 3 to 4 minutes, or until the sauce thickens. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Season with salt, pepper, and a hint of nutmeg.

#3 Country Style Ragu’ (Ragu alla Contadina)

Preparation Time: Ingredient Preparation Time 30 minutes and Cooking time 2 hours

Makes enough sauce for 1 recipe fresh pasta or 1 pound/450g dried pasta)

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (45 mL)
2 ounces/60g pancetta, finely chopped
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium stalk celery with leaves, minced
1 small carrot, minced
250g ground veal
250g ground pork loin, trimmed of fat,
1 ounce/30g thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma
2/3 cup (5 ounces/160ml) dry red wine
1 &1/2 cups (12 ounces/375ml) beef stock
2 cups (16 ounces/500ml) milk
3 cans* plum tomatoes, drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Working Ahead:
The ragu can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate. It also freezes well for up to 1 month. Skim the fat from the ragu’ before using it.

Browning the Ragu Base:
Heat the olive oil in a 12 inch (30cm) skillet (frying pan) over medium-high heat. Have a large saucepan handy to use once browning is complete. Add the pancetta and minced vegetables and sauté, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, 10 minutes, or until the onions barely begin to color. Coarsely grind all the meats together, including the prosciutto, in a food processor or meat grinder. Stir into the pan and slowly brown over medium heat. First the meats will give off a liquid and turn dull grey but, as the liquid evaporates, browning will begin. Stir often, scooping under the meats with the wooden spatula. Protect the brown glaze forming on the bottom of the pan by turning the heat down. Cook 15 minutes, or until the meats are a deep brown. Turn the contents of the skillet into a strainer and shake out the fat. Turn them into the saucepan and set over medium heat.

Reducing and Simmering: Add the wine to the skillet, lowering the heat so the sauce bubbles quietly. Stir occasionally until the wine has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Scrape up the brown glaze as the wine bubbles. Then pour the reduced wine into the saucepan and set the skillet aside.

Stir ½ cup stock into the saucepan and let it bubble slowly, 10 minutes, or until totally evaporated. Repeat with another ½ cup stock. Stir in the last 1/2 cup stock along with the milk. Adjust heat so the liquid bubbles very slowly. Partially cover the pot, and cook 1 hour. Stir frequently to check for sticking.

Add the tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pot. Cook uncovered, at a very slow bubble for another 45 minutes, or until the sauce resembles a thick, meaty stew. Season with salt and pepper.

Window Winter Wonderland

Although many people wouldn't think that Finland would have divine sweets, however the opposite is true and whenever I'm in Finland all I want to do is eat and eat. My favorite would have have to be the addicting, Fazer chocolate and anything it is on, dipped in, etc. They even have a fabulous shop in Helsinki, which I have to visit each time and stare at the beautiful creations and bins of chocolate bites. It feels like a Scandinavian take on Willa Wonka, especially the sundaes, yet surprisingly fashionable and modern. The secret to the deliciousness is that Finnish milk is the best in the world (you must keep in mind that this is coming from the Finn's themselves, but I can believe it). It is mighty fresh and this in turn creates amazing milk chocolate. So I load up on a few kilos of Fazer each time I visit only to eat them all within a week on my return.

Although equally as tasty is the Eckberg Cafe, also near the esplandi where this window photo was taken of the trams in Helsinki. The trams are made in gingerbread of course. They too have a delicious range of products in their bakery portion, such as cheese balls and scrumptious treats in the restaurant portion.

All this occurred, around Christmas time 2008 to visit the in-laws. They are always delighted to see what Scandinavian inspired food I can whip up. This Christmas I made my first ever Karelian Pies, which were quite tasty. They ingredients are fairly straight forward however, the process and preparation is quite demanding. The pies are made of thin rye pastry crust that contain a non-sweeted rice porridge . It may sound like a strange concept, but add a little butter and cheese (as you would to make anything tasty) and they are divine. In London there is a shop that sells them for nearly £2 a pop, whereas you can buy aFazer brand bag of 6 for approximately 3 or so Euros. Upon returning to London, I decided to attempt to make the pies in our tiny London flat. The first batch didn't turn out as fantastic as theFazer ones, probably something to do my novice skills, American background, and English milk. But the second round was much more successful-- the secret is the after baking dip in butter and milkcombination. It helps soften the pies and keep you coming back for more.

Karelian Pie Recipe:

Filling
2 cup water
2 cup milk
1 cup rice porridge
salt and pepper

Crust
1/2 cup water
1 cup rye flour
1/2 cup all purpose flour


Finishing Mixture
1/2 cup milk
3 tablespoons butter

Depending on if you have rapid or quick rice porridge or not, cook roughly according to package directions. I generally boil the water, then add the rice. Wait until the rice has absorbed all the water and then gentle boil/simmer with the remainder of the milk. You may need to add a bit more milk or water depending on how hot your pan is, as it tends to evaporate. Assuming traditional riceporridge, this can take about 30 minutes. Preheat oven as high as it can go.

While you are stirring the rice occasionally, make the rye crusts for the pies. This requires some patience as you need to get the crusts as thin as possible, or as they say, so you can see 'the stars through them'. Mix the ingredients in a bowl, but be careful not to overwork otherwise you will have some tough crust. Then being to roll out your crusts. There are two options here, you can make a long log roll and then cut off portions to roll or just make small balls and then roll out. I would recommend the log roll method as it minimises your contact with the dough. Cut each doughpiece about 1/2- 3/4 of an inch thick.

Then begin to roll out each of your pieces with a rolling pin. The final product should be no larger than the size of your hand and very thin. Then add about 2-3 tablespoons of your riceporridge to the centre. Roll up the edges as you would the edges of a pie crust.

Add parchment paper to a baking sheet and place your finished pies on the sheet. Bake them in the oven for 5-7 minutes. While they are in the oven, scald your milk and take off of heat. Add the butter for your finishing dip. After the pies come out of the oven, dip each one into the mixture and let cool.

The Finn's like to have these with a bit of butter and added cheese, or if you are feeling rather traditional add some egg butter, which is just what it sounds a mixture of boiled eggs and butter. These can be eaten for breakfast or a snack, simply enjoy.